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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
Nos últimos anos, as indústrias têxtil e do vestuário têm exercido grandes
esforços para melhorar os resultados em termos de produtividade e
competitividade.
As exigências dos consumidores em relação aos produtos adquiridos
acompanharam as mudanças das tendências da moda.
Os consumidores procuram cada vez mais vestuário dito funcional, isto é,
com funções acrescidas, com maior qualidade e, consequentemente, com
maior valor acrescentado.
Sendo a sensação de conforto numa peça de vestuário essencial e
fundamental para o desempenho do seu utilizador e considerada como factor
de qualidade da mesma, cabe ao designer, através de estudos da fisiologia
do vestuário, atribuir determinadas características ao mesmo e, assim,
oferecer ao consumidor um produto com qualidade e elevado valor
acrescentado.
O presente trabalho desenvolveu-se na área do conhecimento do
comportamento fisiológico, durante o uso, de estruturas de malha com um
design estrutural e composição conhecidos e, consequentemente, na garantia
de um aumento do valor utilitário dos artigos confeccionados com este tipo de
malhas.
Assim, começou-se por seleccionar os seguintes materiais têxteis
considerados adequados a este estudo e avaliaram-se as suas principais
propriedades físicas. Fez-se igualmente a caracterização dimensional das
estruturas de malha com composição e massa/unidade de superfície
seleccionadas para este trabalho. Posteriormente averiguou-se o
desempenho fisiológico das mesmas através da avaliação das propriedades
permeabilidade ao vapor de água e resistência evaporativa, para diferentes percentagens de humidade presente nas malhas, as quais condicionaram o
seu desempenho fisiológico e para tal foi usado o aparelho Permetest.
Através da análise e interpretação dos resultados obtidos para as referidas
propriedades, foi possível concluir-se da relação existente entre estas e as
diferentes percentagens de humidade presentes nas estruturas, isto é, foi
possível prever o comportamento das mesmas quando do seu uso pelo
respectivo portador.
In the last years, textile and clothing industries have developed great efforts to improve results in terms of productivity and competitiveness. Consumer requirements for products acquired changes followed the trends of fashion. Consumers increasingly wants functional clothing, with increased functions, higher quality and thus with higher added value. Comfort feeling in a garment is essential and fundamental to the performance of it´s user and also a quality factor. So the designers, through studies of clothing physiology, wants to assign certain characteristics, and thus offer to the consumer a product with high quality and added value. This work was developed in the knowledge of the physiological behaviour of knitted structures in wear, with a known composition and structural design, in a way to get an increase value in clothing made with this type of knitting. First, it was selected the textile materials appropriated for this study and have been evaluated their main physical properties. Also has been done the dimensional characterization of the knitting structures with a certain composition and mass / unit area selected for this work. In the next step physiological behaviour has been evaluated trough the values obtained to water vapour permeability and water evaporative resistance properties at various percentages of moisture present in the knitting sample. For that Permetest instrument has been used. Through the analysis and interpretation of the results obtained, it was possible to conclude about the relationship between these one and the differents moisture percentages present in the structures. So, it’s possible to preview the physiological behaviour of the same when in the body of it’s wearer.
In the last years, textile and clothing industries have developed great efforts to improve results in terms of productivity and competitiveness. Consumer requirements for products acquired changes followed the trends of fashion. Consumers increasingly wants functional clothing, with increased functions, higher quality and thus with higher added value. Comfort feeling in a garment is essential and fundamental to the performance of it´s user and also a quality factor. So the designers, through studies of clothing physiology, wants to assign certain characteristics, and thus offer to the consumer a product with high quality and added value. This work was developed in the knowledge of the physiological behaviour of knitted structures in wear, with a known composition and structural design, in a way to get an increase value in clothing made with this type of knitting. First, it was selected the textile materials appropriated for this study and have been evaluated their main physical properties. Also has been done the dimensional characterization of the knitting structures with a certain composition and mass / unit area selected for this work. In the next step physiological behaviour has been evaluated trough the values obtained to water vapour permeability and water evaporative resistance properties at various percentages of moisture present in the knitting sample. For that Permetest instrument has been used. Through the analysis and interpretation of the results obtained, it was possible to conclude about the relationship between these one and the differents moisture percentages present in the structures. So, it’s possible to preview the physiological behaviour of the same when in the body of it’s wearer.
Description
Keywords
Design moda Design de vestuário Fisiologia do vestuário Vestuário - Permeabilidade ao vapor de água Vestuário - Estruturas têxteis Vestuário - Conforto
Citation
Publisher
Universidade da Beira Interior