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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
A indústria do calçado move biliões de euros anualmente, sendo perto de 90% do calçado
fabricado na Ásia, em países com baixo custo de mão-de-obra, e apenas cerca de 3% na Europa
onde são consumidos 21% do total de pares confecionados. Atualmente a indústria de calçado
portuguesa exporta mais de 95% da sua produção, traduzindo-se em 79 milhões de euros,
continuando um crescimento constante que desde 2009 se amonta a cerca de 51%. O calçado é
assim um motor da economia nacional com enorme potencial de expansão, o que levou ao
interesse desenvolvido por esta mesma área.
Apesar de séculos de aperfeiçoamento da confeção e modelagem de calçado, o conforto
continua a ser uma das principiais reclamações no calçado feminino. Muitas vezes o fashionable
e o confortável aparecem como características opostas e não o têm de ser. A história do calçado
feminino demonstra várias modas extremas, onde o calçado ao invés de auxiliar o andar, reduz
a liberdade de movimentos. Atualmente ainda é prática comum o uso de saltos altos, apesar
da informação sobre os danos que acarretam. A saúde acaba por ser colocada em segundo
plano. É necessário analisar esta abdicação do conforto em prol da moda, a natureza dessa
motivação, bem como a forma de melhor satisfazer todas as necessidades da consumidora.
Assim, é pretendido estudar neste trabalho qual a razão do detrimento da saúde em prol da
estética e da moda, as motivações para a resignação relativamente ao desconforto
nomeadamente nas jovens. Os objetivos passam pela compreensão do consumidor e da sua
relação com a moda, das convenções sociais que os rodeiam, dos códigos de vestuário
normativos, papeis dos géneros e ainda os aspetos simbólicos do salto alto, como o seu
fetichismo.
The industry of footwear moves billions of euros annually, nearly 90% of the footwear is made in Asia, in low labour costs and only 3% in Europe, where 21% of the total manufactured footwear is consumed. Currently, the Portuguese footwear industry exports more than 95% of its manufacturing, translating into 79 million of euros, continuing the steady growth that has occurred since 2009, amounting to almost 51%. Thus, footwear is an engine of the national economy with an enormous potential for expansion, which lead to an interest in this area. Despite centuries of perfecting the manufacture and patternmaking of footwear, comfort remains one of the main complaints when it comes to women’s footwear. Fashionable and comfortable often appear as opposing characteristics, even though they do not need to be. The history of footwear shows many extreme fashions, where shoes rather than assisting walking, reduces the liberty of movements. Currently it is still common practice to wear high heels, in spite of the information relating to the damages that they entail. Health ends up placed second. It is necessary to analyse this abdication of comfort over fashion, the nature of this motivation, as well as a form of satisfying the consumer’s needs. Thus, in this thesis it is intended to study the reason for the expense of health in favour of aesthetics and fashion, the motivations for the resignation regarding discomfort in young women particularly. The objectives are based on the understanding of the consumer and its relation with fashion, of the social conventions surrounding them, normative dress codes, gender roles and the symbolic aspects of the high heel, as its fetishism.
The industry of footwear moves billions of euros annually, nearly 90% of the footwear is made in Asia, in low labour costs and only 3% in Europe, where 21% of the total manufactured footwear is consumed. Currently, the Portuguese footwear industry exports more than 95% of its manufacturing, translating into 79 million of euros, continuing the steady growth that has occurred since 2009, amounting to almost 51%. Thus, footwear is an engine of the national economy with an enormous potential for expansion, which lead to an interest in this area. Despite centuries of perfecting the manufacture and patternmaking of footwear, comfort remains one of the main complaints when it comes to women’s footwear. Fashionable and comfortable often appear as opposing characteristics, even though they do not need to be. The history of footwear shows many extreme fashions, where shoes rather than assisting walking, reduces the liberty of movements. Currently it is still common practice to wear high heels, in spite of the information relating to the damages that they entail. Health ends up placed second. It is necessary to analyse this abdication of comfort over fashion, the nature of this motivation, as well as a form of satisfying the consumer’s needs. Thus, in this thesis it is intended to study the reason for the expense of health in favour of aesthetics and fashion, the motivations for the resignation regarding discomfort in young women particularly. The objectives are based on the understanding of the consumer and its relation with fashion, of the social conventions surrounding them, normative dress codes, gender roles and the symbolic aspects of the high heel, as its fetishism.
Description
Keywords
Acessórios Calçado Conforto Design de Moda Salto Alto Total Look