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Authors
Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
Existe alguma falta de interesse e motivação pelos designers de moda na aquisição de
conhecimento e competências em modelagem de vestuário. No entanto a importância deste
conhecimento é referida por especialistas, designers e empresas do sector. Esta investigação
tem o objetivo de não só documentar e demonstrar a importância desta temática com
exemplos de sucesso e reconhecidos na História da Moda, que se diferenciaram por uma
aposta clara em diferentes abordagens à modelagem, mas também mostrar como a
modelagem de vestuário pode ser utilizada para construir e expressar a identidade de um
designer de moda. Para além da história da modelagem de vestuário, os diferentes tipos de
modelagem foram identificados e tiveram as suas vantagens e possibilidades explicadas. A
criatividade foi abordada e relacionada com o Design de Moda. Também a identidade e
expressão artística tiveram uma abordagem semelhante para aprofundar e contribuir para
o objetivo desta investigação.
Como metodologia da componente prática da investigação recorre-se à recolha de dados
qualitativos através de entrevistas a designers de moda como forma de contribuir e validar
a importância da modelagem na formação, carreira e na identidade do designer. Numa
segunda parte recorre-se a uma metodologia projetual para desenvolver um projeto. Após
uma análise dos trabalhos já desenvolvidos pelo autor e, identificando pontos comuns ao
longo dos trabalhos, foi desenvolvido um projeto de autor de criação e experimentação com
o objetivo de desenvolver arquétipos e modos de modelar que contribuíssem na construção
de um código não-verbal da assinatura enquanto designer do autor.
Conclui-se que existe um conjunto de designers que usaram a modelagem para
desenvolver uma identidade própria coordenada com outros fatores e princípios que não
são âmbito desta investigação. O exemplo de projeto do autor Joaquim Trindade aqui
apresentado pretendeu demostrar um exemplo onde são acompanhadas todas as fases
projetais de modelagem de vestuário de forma a contribuir para a construção de uma
identidade e expressão artística. A não generalização destes resultados foi clara, mas a
contribuição para futuras investigações nesta área e novas formas de abordar a modelagem
de vestuário ficou evidente nos exemplos apresentados e analisados.
There is some lack of interest and motivation by fashion designers to acquire knowledge and skills in clothing patternmaking. However, specialists, designers, and companies in the sector mention the importance of this knowledge. This investigation aims not only to document and demonstrate the importance of this subject with successful and recognized examples in the Fashion History, which have distinguished themselves by a clear commitment to different approaches to patternmaking but also to show how patternmaking can be used to build and express the identity of a fashion designer. In addition to the history of clothing patternmaking, the different types of patternmaking were identified, and their advantages and possibilities were explained. Creativity was approached and related to Fashion Design. Also, identity and artistic expression had a similar approach to deepen and contribute to the objective of this investigation. As a methodology of the practical component of the investigation, it was resorted to the collection of qualitative data through interviews with fashion designers as a way of contributing to and validating the importance of patternmaking in the schooling, career, and identity of the designer. In the second part, a design methodology was used to develop a project. After an analysis of the works already developed by the author and, identifying common points throughout the works, an author project of creation and experimentation with the objective of developing archetypes and ways of patternmaking that would contribute to the construction of a non-verbal code of the author's design signature. It was concluded that there is a group of designers who used patternmaking to develop their own identity coordinated with other factors and principles that are not in the scope of this investigation. The example of a project by the author Joaquim Trindade presented here intended to demonstrate an example where all the design phases of clothing patternmaking are followed to contribute to the construction of an identity and artistic expression. The non-generalization of these results was clear, but the contribution to future investigations in this area and new ways of approaching clothing patternmaking was evident in the examples presented and analyzed.
There is some lack of interest and motivation by fashion designers to acquire knowledge and skills in clothing patternmaking. However, specialists, designers, and companies in the sector mention the importance of this knowledge. This investigation aims not only to document and demonstrate the importance of this subject with successful and recognized examples in the Fashion History, which have distinguished themselves by a clear commitment to different approaches to patternmaking but also to show how patternmaking can be used to build and express the identity of a fashion designer. In addition to the history of clothing patternmaking, the different types of patternmaking were identified, and their advantages and possibilities were explained. Creativity was approached and related to Fashion Design. Also, identity and artistic expression had a similar approach to deepen and contribute to the objective of this investigation. As a methodology of the practical component of the investigation, it was resorted to the collection of qualitative data through interviews with fashion designers as a way of contributing to and validating the importance of patternmaking in the schooling, career, and identity of the designer. In the second part, a design methodology was used to develop a project. After an analysis of the works already developed by the author and, identifying common points throughout the works, an author project of creation and experimentation with the objective of developing archetypes and ways of patternmaking that would contribute to the construction of a non-verbal code of the author's design signature. It was concluded that there is a group of designers who used patternmaking to develop their own identity coordinated with other factors and principles that are not in the scope of this investigation. The example of a project by the author Joaquim Trindade presented here intended to demonstrate an example where all the design phases of clothing patternmaking are followed to contribute to the construction of an identity and artistic expression. The non-generalization of these results was clear, but the contribution to future investigations in this area and new ways of approaching clothing patternmaking was evident in the examples presented and analyzed.
Description
Keywords
Criatividade Design de Autor Expressão Artística Novos Métodos de Modelagem