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Abstract(s)
Na actualidade, os acessórios têm uma grande importância no mundo da moda, e têm vindo a
ganhar cada vez mais terreno por vários motivos, como por exemplo: em tempo de crise
torna-‐se mais fácil adquirir acessórios do que vestuário; são multiplicadores de looks;
conferem individualidade ao seu portador, fazendo-o também sentir-se especial; também a
venda de acessórios, pelas marcas de luxo, leva a que as mesmas consigam atrair um maior
número do clientes.
O objectivo deste trabalho é estudar a evolução dos acessórios, muito particularmente do
século XX apesar destes terem vindo sempre a ser utilizados ao longo dos tempos, dado
tratar-‐se de uma época em que ocorreram grandes e rápidas mudanças, a nível político,
económico, tecnológico e social. Este estudo, que faz também uma breve referência às
tendências actuais do mundo dos acessórios, contemplou itens como chapéus, sapatos,
gravatas, malas, cintos, óculos de sol, leques, máscaras, lenços e écharpes, relógios, regalos,
luvas, joalharia e bijutaria. No entanto, deu-‐se especial enfoque aos cintos e faixas, por
serem acessórios que já são utilizados desde que existem vestígios de roupa e devido à
importância que estes têm ganho com a recente tendência de marcar a cintura, em especial
na silhueta feminina.
Assim, é igualmente objectivo deste trabalho conceber um acessório de moda, na área dos
cintos e das faixas , com propriedades de conforto e um design inovador. Procedeu-‐se então à
selecção dos materiais têxteis, selecção da estrutura têxtil e da própria forma que a faixa
devia apresentar, pelo que se sucedeu todo um processo desde a realização de esboços,
triagem dos mesmos, realização de experiências em malha jersey ao nível da forma da faixa,
até à escolha do modelo final, que foi seleccionado segundo determinados critérios. A faixa
foi realizada numa malha com uma estrutura dita funcional,derivada do rib e com duas
camadas, uma de algodão e outra de poliéster. No acabamento deste acessório foi utilizada a
fita de viés elástica. Depois de executado o desenho técnico, realizaram-se vários protótipos,
com várias opções de cor ao nível da malha e dos acabamentos. Seguiu-se então uma
avaliação experimental do desempenho termofisiológico da faixa, recorrendo aos aparelhos
Alambeta e Permetest. A nível térmico as propriedades avaliadas foram a condutividade
térmica, a absortividade térmica e a resistência térmica. No que respeita às propriedades
fisiológicas foram avaliadas a permeabilidade ao vapor de água e a resistência evaporativa, o que permitiu inferir acerca do conforto que a faixa iria apresentar durante o uso pelo seu
portador.
Nowadays, accessories have huge importance when it comes to the fashion world, and the importance of it continues growing. There are several explanations for this fact such as: during times of crisis it becomes easier to acquire accessories in comparison to acquiring clothes; they can create different looks; they grant the carrier individuality, making him feel special; the sale of accessories, by glamorous and famous brands, also catches the attention of a wider number of clients. Despite of the fact that accessories have been being used during a long period of time, the goal of this work is to study the evolution of it, but in particular during the 20th century as it is a century of big and fast changes when it matters to political, economical, technological and social issues. This study also makes a soft reference to current trends like hats, shoes, ties, bags, belts, sunglasses, fans, masks, scarves, watches, muffs, gloves, jewelry and costume jewelry. However it is specially focused on belts and sashes due to the fact that they have been being used as an accessory by the time that clothes were invented and also because of the importance that they have been gaining with the recent trend of marking the waistline, especially in feminine silhouettes. So, it is also a goal of this work to create a fashion accessory, related to the particular area of belts and sashes, with comfortable properties and an innovator design. The selection of textiles was proceeded, as the selection of the textile structure and the selection of the shape of the sash in question, succeeded by a whole process that included the realization of sketches (and also its selection), the realization of experiences with jersey knit when it comes to the shape of the sash until the choice of the final model, that was determined according to some criteria. The sash was made in knit with a called functional structure, derived from rib and with two layers, one made of cotton and the other made of polyester. It was also used elastic bias tape on the finish of this accessory. After executed the technical drawing there were made some prototypes with several colors when it matters to the knit and the finishes. Then this execution was followed by an experimental evaluation of the thermophysiological behaviour of the sash, using instruments as Alambeta e Permetest. In the thermal component the properties evaluated were: thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and thermal resistance. Regarding to the physiological properties have been evaluated the vapour permeability and the evaporative resistance, which allowed inferring about the comfort that the sash would give to the carrier, while using it.
Nowadays, accessories have huge importance when it comes to the fashion world, and the importance of it continues growing. There are several explanations for this fact such as: during times of crisis it becomes easier to acquire accessories in comparison to acquiring clothes; they can create different looks; they grant the carrier individuality, making him feel special; the sale of accessories, by glamorous and famous brands, also catches the attention of a wider number of clients. Despite of the fact that accessories have been being used during a long period of time, the goal of this work is to study the evolution of it, but in particular during the 20th century as it is a century of big and fast changes when it matters to political, economical, technological and social issues. This study also makes a soft reference to current trends like hats, shoes, ties, bags, belts, sunglasses, fans, masks, scarves, watches, muffs, gloves, jewelry and costume jewelry. However it is specially focused on belts and sashes due to the fact that they have been being used as an accessory by the time that clothes were invented and also because of the importance that they have been gaining with the recent trend of marking the waistline, especially in feminine silhouettes. So, it is also a goal of this work to create a fashion accessory, related to the particular area of belts and sashes, with comfortable properties and an innovator design. The selection of textiles was proceeded, as the selection of the textile structure and the selection of the shape of the sash in question, succeeded by a whole process that included the realization of sketches (and also its selection), the realization of experiences with jersey knit when it comes to the shape of the sash until the choice of the final model, that was determined according to some criteria. The sash was made in knit with a called functional structure, derived from rib and with two layers, one made of cotton and the other made of polyester. It was also used elastic bias tape on the finish of this accessory. After executed the technical drawing there were made some prototypes with several colors when it matters to the knit and the finishes. Then this execution was followed by an experimental evaluation of the thermophysiological behaviour of the sash, using instruments as Alambeta e Permetest. In the thermal component the properties evaluated were: thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and thermal resistance. Regarding to the physiological properties have been evaluated the vapour permeability and the evaporative resistance, which allowed inferring about the comfort that the sash would give to the carrier, while using it.
Description
Keywords
Design moda - Acessórios de moda - História - Séc. 20 Acessórios de moda - Inovação - Conforto
Citation
Publisher
Universidade da Beira Interior