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Authors
Abstract(s)
O burel é um tecido conhecido por ser de 100% lã, muito resistente e de alta durabilidade. No
início era desenvolvido de forma artesanal, constituindo, então, parte integrante da cultura
portuguesa. O presente trabalho, visa fazer uma revisitação do burel, a partir do estudo da
fibra de lã e suas aplicações têxteis, desde os primórdios até a contemporaneidade. Enfatiza,
assim, suas características morfológicas, suas propriedades e seu processo de feltragem, bem
como a fabricação do burel. Desse modo, propõe novas formas de tecelagem e de
acabamento que interfiram tridimensionalmente na sua superfície; assim sendo, mudar seu
aspecto único de maneira a torná-lo novamente na cultura do povo e, por consequência, cada
vez mais utilizado por todos. A pesquisa envolve também um processo experimental, desde a
concepção de um desenho que possibilite a criação de texturas através da feltragem, passa
pela escolha dos melhores fios e suas combinações com outras fibras, chegando à relação
entre a feltragem dos tecidos de 100% lã e os tecidos tramados com outra fibra, no caso, o
algodão. Os tecidos foram feitos num processo industrial em parceria com a Paramount
Têxteis e passados pelo processo de feltragem, assim pode-se observar os relevos criados;
estes foram mais evidentes nos tecidos onde foi inserida trama com cor diferente e fibra do
algodão.
The burel tissue is known to be 100 % wool, very resistant and high durability, firstly developed from artisanal form and integral part of Portuguese culture. The present work aims to make a revisiting the burel from the study of wool fiber and its textile applications since the early days until the present. Highlighting their morphological characteristics, its properties and felting process, as well as the manufacture of burel and all his importance to the Portuguese culture, proposing new ways of weaving and finishing that interferes threedimensionally on the surface to change its unique, which come alive again in the culture and increasingly used throughout the world. The research also involves a process from the experimental conception of a design that allows the creation of textures by the choice of the best yarns and their combination with other fibers, the relationship between felting of the fabrics of 100% wool, and the fabrics woven with other fibers, in this case cotton. The fabrics were made in an industrial process in partnership with Paramount Textiles and passed by the felting process, so can see the reliefs created; these were more evident in the tissues where it was inserted weft with different color and cotton fiber.
The burel tissue is known to be 100 % wool, very resistant and high durability, firstly developed from artisanal form and integral part of Portuguese culture. The present work aims to make a revisiting the burel from the study of wool fiber and its textile applications since the early days until the present. Highlighting their morphological characteristics, its properties and felting process, as well as the manufacture of burel and all his importance to the Portuguese culture, proposing new ways of weaving and finishing that interferes threedimensionally on the surface to change its unique, which come alive again in the culture and increasingly used throughout the world. The research also involves a process from the experimental conception of a design that allows the creation of textures by the choice of the best yarns and their combination with other fibers, the relationship between felting of the fabrics of 100% wool, and the fabrics woven with other fibers, in this case cotton. The fabrics were made in an industrial process in partnership with Paramount Textiles and passed by the felting process, so can see the reliefs created; these were more evident in the tissues where it was inserted weft with different color and cotton fiber.
Description
Keywords
Design moda - Fibras de lã - História Design moda - Fibras de lã - Aplicações têxteis Design vernacular - Burel Burel - História Burel - Manipulação de superfície
Pedagogical Context
Citation
Publisher
Universidade da Beira Interior