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Authors
Abstract(s)
Pretendeu-se com esta dissertação efetuar uma abordagem mais conceptual do design
de moda, tal como evidenciar o papel do designer com a tecnologia no mundo da moda e,
ainda como este se manifesta na contemporaneidade.
Assim, o objetivo desta dissertação remete para a investigação da temática da
camuflagem térmica na área têxtil e do design de moda.
Como tal, procurou-se neste trabalho desenvolver um coordenado com propriedades
de camuflagem térmica, com base em materiais e estruturas têxteis que apresentassem as
necessárias propriedades, estudando o seu desempenho térmico, verificando o
comportamento da temperatura e da assinatura térmica do indivíduo, relacionando-se o
corpo, o material têxtil e o meio ambiente. Com este tipo de vestuário procura-se obter a
camuflagem do indivíduo às câmaras termográficas, facilitando por exemplo as missões dos
militares em combate.
Por outro lado, pretendeu-se igualmente a criação de imagens, de padrões e de
ilusões térmicas através da investigação da utilização de materiais têxteis com desempenhos
térmicos diferenciados, proporcionando contrastes na câmara termográfica. Para tal,
utilizaram-se materiais têxteis selecionados em função do seu comportamento em termos de
isolamento térmico e emissividade, tendo os mesmos sido analisados em laboratório com a
utilização de uma placa térmica e câmara térmica. Posteriormente, selecionaram-se
estruturas de malha para execução final do protótipo dos padrões e do coordenado final,
sendo estes testados em laboratório. Os padrões foram previamente testados na placa
térmica com os tecidos finais e o coordenado final foi testado na modelo, retirando-se
imagens térmicas do mesmo e finalizando-se com uma sessão fotográfica.
Com a execução deste coordenado final foi possível evidenciar aspetos que
interferem com a imagem térmica do corpo humano, como a emissividade, a espessura, a
composição do material e o contacto térmico entre o vestuário e o corpo.
It was intended, with this dissertation, to make a more conceptual approach of fashion design, such as highlighting the role of the designer with technology in the world of fashion and even how this manifests in contemporary times. Therefore, the objective of this dissertation refers to the scientific investigation of a thermal camouflage theme in the textile and fashion design. However, this study sought to develop a look with camouflage thermal properties, based on materials and textile structures to submit the necessary properties, studying the thermal performance by checking the behavior of the temperature and the thermal signature of the individual, relating the body, the textile material and the environment. With this type of clothing the purpose is to obtain camouflage to the individual for the thermal imagers, including facilitating the military missions in combat. On the other hand, the target is also creating images, patterns and thermal illusions by investigating the use of textile materials with different thermal performances, providing contrasts in the thermal imager. For such, the textile materials used are selected according to its behavior in terms of thermal emissivity and, having been analyzed in the same laboratory with the use of a thermal plate and a thermal camera. Subsequently, mesh structures were selected for the final execution of the prototype patterns and the look, these being tested in the laboratory. The patterns have been previously tested in the thermal plate with the final fabrics and final look on the model, gathering thermal images of it and ending up with a photo shoot. With the execution of this final look it was possible to evidence aspects that interfere with the thermal image of the human body, such as emissivity, thickness, material composition and thermal contact between the garment and the body.
It was intended, with this dissertation, to make a more conceptual approach of fashion design, such as highlighting the role of the designer with technology in the world of fashion and even how this manifests in contemporary times. Therefore, the objective of this dissertation refers to the scientific investigation of a thermal camouflage theme in the textile and fashion design. However, this study sought to develop a look with camouflage thermal properties, based on materials and textile structures to submit the necessary properties, studying the thermal performance by checking the behavior of the temperature and the thermal signature of the individual, relating the body, the textile material and the environment. With this type of clothing the purpose is to obtain camouflage to the individual for the thermal imagers, including facilitating the military missions in combat. On the other hand, the target is also creating images, patterns and thermal illusions by investigating the use of textile materials with different thermal performances, providing contrasts in the thermal imager. For such, the textile materials used are selected according to its behavior in terms of thermal emissivity and, having been analyzed in the same laboratory with the use of a thermal plate and a thermal camera. Subsequently, mesh structures were selected for the final execution of the prototype patterns and the look, these being tested in the laboratory. The patterns have been previously tested in the thermal plate with the final fabrics and final look on the model, gathering thermal images of it and ending up with a photo shoot. With the execution of this final look it was possible to evidence aspects that interfere with the thermal image of the human body, such as emissivity, thickness, material composition and thermal contact between the garment and the body.
Description
Keywords
Design moda Design moda - Termografia Materiais têxteis - Camuflagem Vestuário inteligente
Pedagogical Context
Citation
Publisher
Universidade da Beira Interior