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Abstract(s)
Os produtos cosméticos representam um papel relevante tanto no bem-estar físico
como no âmbito social do consumidor atual, incentivando assim a indústria
cosmética a criar produtos novos de forma a colmatar as exigências crescentes da
sociedade atual.
Quando presentes na composição de uma formulação cosmética, os antioxidantes
podem atuar de duas maneiras distintas, podendo inibir a oxidação dos restantes
ingredientes, mas também podem ter um papel como ingrediente ativo quando
integrados em formulações de aplicação tópica com função antienvelhecimento, uma
vez que atuam de maneira a manter a quantidade de antioxidantes presentes na pele.
Substâncias de origem natural, tais como os óleos essenciais das mais diversas
plantas aromáticas, surgem como uma possível alternativa aos compostos sintéticos,
para aplicação como antioxidante em produtos cosméticos como ingrediente ativo.
As plantas Syzygium aromaticum, Ocimum basilicum, Origanum vulgare e o fruto
Citrus sinensis, bastante consumidos em Portugal, possuem óleos essenciais, com
elevado interesse, tendo vindo recentemente a ser analisados em relação às suas
atividades biológicas.
Este estudo pretende analisar quimicamente os óleos essenciais de Syzygium
aromaticum, Ocimum basilicum, Origanum vulgare e de Citrus sinensis, e estudálos quanto às suas atividades antioxidante e citotóxica, na perspetiva de serem
empregues como ingredientes com função antioxidante em formulações cosméticas.
Os resultados obtidos permitiram inferir que a atividade antioxidante dos óleos
essenciais em estudo concede-lhes a potencialidade de serem utilizados como
ingredientes antioxidantes naturais em formulações cosméticas, que estes são
seguros quando utilizados na gama de concentrações compatíveis com o seu limite de
segurança ao nível da atividade citotóxica em estudo, 0,008 a 0,004% (v/v). É de
referir que o óleo que demonstrou ser mais antioxidante tanto na capacidade de
redução de radicais livres como na inibição da peroxidação lipídica foi o óleo
essencial de Sygyzium aromaticum, contudo é de salientar que também foi aquele
que apresentou uma maior citotoxicidade. Por outro lado, o óleo essencial de Citrus
sinensis apesar de ter demonstrado ser o mais biocompatível com a linha celular de queratinócitos humanos, HaCat, foi aquele que demonstrou uma capacidade elevada
de inibir a peroxidação lipídica.
Este trabalho é assim considerado uma avaliação primária das potencialidades dos
óleos essenciais, pelo que será interessante futuramente desenvolverem-se estudos
que englobem outras avaliações das mais diversas atividades biológicas, mas também
da sua eficácia e segurança.
Cosmetic products play an important role in both the physical and social well-being of today's consumer, thus encouraging the cosmetics industry to create new products to meet the growing demands of today's society. When present in the composition of a cosmetic formulation, antioxidants can act in two distinct ways. They can inhibit the oxidation of the other ingredients, but they can also play a role as an active ingredient when integrated into topical formulations with an anti-aging function, since they act to maintain the amount of antioxidants present in the skin. Substances of natural origin, such as the essential oils of various aromatic plants, emerge as a possible alternative for synthetic compounds, for application as an antioxidant in cosmetic products as an active ingredient. The plants Syzygium aromaticum, Ocimum basilicum, Origanum vulgare and the fruit Citrus sinensis, widely consumed in Portugal, have essential oils, with high interest, so recently these have been analysed in relation to their biological activities. This study aims to analyse chemically the essential oil of Syzygium aromaticum, Ocimum basilicum, Origanum vulgare, and Citrus sinensis, and to study them for their antioxidant and cytotoxic activities, with the perspective of being employed as ingredients with antioxidant function in cosmetic formulations. The results obtained allowed us to infer that the antioxidant activity of the essential oils and the expression oil under study gives them the potential to be used as natural antioxidant ingredients in safe cosmetic formulations when used in the concentration range compatible with their safety limit at the level of cytotoxic activity under study, 0.008 to 0.004% (v/v). It should be noted that the oil that proved to be most antioxidant in both free radical scavenging capacity and inhibition of lipid peroxidation was the essential oil of Sygyzium aromaticum, however it should be noted that it was also the one that showed the highest cytotoxicity. Otherwise, the essential oil of Citrus sinensis despite having shown to be the most biocompatible with the human keratinocyte cell line, HaCat, was the one that demonstrated a high ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. This work is thus considered a primary evaluation of the potential of essential oils and expression oil, so it will be interesting to develop future studies that encompass other evaluations of the most diverse biological activities, but also of their efficacy and safety.
Cosmetic products play an important role in both the physical and social well-being of today's consumer, thus encouraging the cosmetics industry to create new products to meet the growing demands of today's society. When present in the composition of a cosmetic formulation, antioxidants can act in two distinct ways. They can inhibit the oxidation of the other ingredients, but they can also play a role as an active ingredient when integrated into topical formulations with an anti-aging function, since they act to maintain the amount of antioxidants present in the skin. Substances of natural origin, such as the essential oils of various aromatic plants, emerge as a possible alternative for synthetic compounds, for application as an antioxidant in cosmetic products as an active ingredient. The plants Syzygium aromaticum, Ocimum basilicum, Origanum vulgare and the fruit Citrus sinensis, widely consumed in Portugal, have essential oils, with high interest, so recently these have been analysed in relation to their biological activities. This study aims to analyse chemically the essential oil of Syzygium aromaticum, Ocimum basilicum, Origanum vulgare, and Citrus sinensis, and to study them for their antioxidant and cytotoxic activities, with the perspective of being employed as ingredients with antioxidant function in cosmetic formulations. The results obtained allowed us to infer that the antioxidant activity of the essential oils and the expression oil under study gives them the potential to be used as natural antioxidant ingredients in safe cosmetic formulations when used in the concentration range compatible with their safety limit at the level of cytotoxic activity under study, 0.008 to 0.004% (v/v). It should be noted that the oil that proved to be most antioxidant in both free radical scavenging capacity and inhibition of lipid peroxidation was the essential oil of Sygyzium aromaticum, however it should be noted that it was also the one that showed the highest cytotoxicity. Otherwise, the essential oil of Citrus sinensis despite having shown to be the most biocompatible with the human keratinocyte cell line, HaCat, was the one that demonstrated a high ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. This work is thus considered a primary evaluation of the potential of essential oils and expression oil, so it will be interesting to develop future studies that encompass other evaluations of the most diverse biological activities, but also of their efficacy and safety.
Description
Keywords
Atividade Antioxidante Atividade Citotóxica Citrus Sinensis Ocimum Basilicum Óleo de Expressão Óleo Essencial Origanum Vulgare Produtos Cosméticos Sygyzium Aromaticum