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Authors
Abstract(s)
As mudanças que têm ocorrido no nosso planeta têm aumentado a consciência ambiental do consumidor. Este tem-se preocupado cada vez mais com a sustentabilidade e isso reflete-se, por exemplo, na escolha de cosméticos, sendo o consumo sustentável um conceito cada vez mais presente nas nossas vidas. Nesse sentido, o uso de hidrolatos de plantas aromáticas e medicinais tem ganho destaque na indústria, devido ao facto destes subprodutos possuírem diversas propriedades benéficas à saúde humana. No entanto, a bioatividade de hidrolatos não tem sido largamente estudada, sendo dado ênfase ao estudo dos óleos essenciais. Para valorizar o uso de hidrolatos como ingredientes cosméticos, durante o trabalho desta dissertação avaliámos as propriedades de oito hidrolatos distintos e um extrato aquoso, pertencentes a diversas famílias de plantas, relativamente ao seu potencial antifúngico, anti-inflamatório e à sua biocompatibilidade in vitro com células da pele. Para isso avaliou-se a viabilidade celular em macrófagos de ratinho e queratinócitos humanos, quando expostos aos diferentes hidrolatos e extrato aquoso. A atividade antiinflamatória foi avaliada nos macrófagos, através da quantificação da produção de óxido nítrico (NO) após estimulação com lipopolissacarídeo (LPS). A levedura Candida albicans e o fungo filamentoso Aspergillus brasiliensis foram utilizados para avaliar a atividade antifúngica dos extratos. A concentração mínima inibitória (CMI) foi avaliada pelo método de microdiluição e posteriormente a concentração mínima letal (CML) foi determinada. Os resultados demostraram que o hidrolato de Helichrysum italicum foi o mais biocompatível tendo o de Thymbra capitata sido o menos biocompatível, em ambas as linhas celulares. A diminuição da produção de NO foi semelhante para todos os extratos, apresentando resultados com perfil dose-resposta, o que ocorreu de forma semelhante nos testes de viabilidade celular. Nos ensaios de atividade antifúngica, apenas o hidrolato de Thymbra capitata apresentou CMI visual em ambos os microrganismos, ocorrendo inibição completa do crescimento nas maiores concentrações testadas. Com este trabalho conclui-se que o estudo dos hidrolatos deve ser aprofundado devido às suas inúmeras propriedades, nomeadamente a atividade anti-inflamatória aliada a uma baixa toxicidade celular. O potencial antifúngico também foi demonstrado, mas apenas em concentrações mais altas. Assim, c oncluise que os hidrolatos têm potencial como ingredientes cosméticos, uma vez que retêm algumas das bioatividades de apresentarem uma dos respetivos óleos essenciais, com baixa citotoxicidade.
The changes that have occurred on our planet have increased the environmental awareness of the consumer, which have become increasingly concerned with sustainability. Sustainable consumption is a concept increasingly present in our lives and this is reflected, for example, in the consumers’ choice of cosmetic products. In this sense, the use of plant hydrolates has gained prominence in different fields, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, since these by-products can present many beneficial properties to our health. However, the bioactivity of hydrolates has not been widely studied, as the majority of the studies focus on the characterization of essential oils. During this dissertation we evaluated the bioactive properties of eight distinct hydrolates and one aqueous extract from several families, focusing on their antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and biocompatible potential, thus highlighting their potential use for skin applications. Cell biocompatibility of the plant extracts was evaluated in macrophages and keratinocytes, through MTT assay. Anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated in macrophages, by measuring the production of NO, after a pro-inflammatory stimulus with LPS. Candida albicans yeast and filamentous fungus Aspergillus brasiliensis were used to evaluate the antifungal activity of the extracts. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) was evaluated by the microdilution method and then the minimum lethal concentration (MLC) was determined. Overall, the results showed that Helichrysum italicum was the most biocompatible hydrolate and the least biocompatible was the one from Thymbra capitata hydrolate, in both cell lines. The decrease in NO production was consensual in all extracts, presenting a dose-response profile, like cell viability results. Regarding antifungal activity, only Thymbra capitata hydrolate showed a visual MIC for both microorganisms, with the complete growth inhibition occurring only at the highest tested concentration. The study of hydrolates should be deepened due to their numerous properties, as their anti-inflammatory activity combined with reduced cellular toxicity. Antifungal potential has also been demonstrated, but only at higher concentrations. It is then concluded that hydrolates have a great potential as cosmetic ingredients, since they retain some of the bioactivities present in essential oils combined with low cytotoxicity.
The changes that have occurred on our planet have increased the environmental awareness of the consumer, which have become increasingly concerned with sustainability. Sustainable consumption is a concept increasingly present in our lives and this is reflected, for example, in the consumers’ choice of cosmetic products. In this sense, the use of plant hydrolates has gained prominence in different fields, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, since these by-products can present many beneficial properties to our health. However, the bioactivity of hydrolates has not been widely studied, as the majority of the studies focus on the characterization of essential oils. During this dissertation we evaluated the bioactive properties of eight distinct hydrolates and one aqueous extract from several families, focusing on their antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and biocompatible potential, thus highlighting their potential use for skin applications. Cell biocompatibility of the plant extracts was evaluated in macrophages and keratinocytes, through MTT assay. Anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated in macrophages, by measuring the production of NO, after a pro-inflammatory stimulus with LPS. Candida albicans yeast and filamentous fungus Aspergillus brasiliensis were used to evaluate the antifungal activity of the extracts. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) was evaluated by the microdilution method and then the minimum lethal concentration (MLC) was determined. Overall, the results showed that Helichrysum italicum was the most biocompatible hydrolate and the least biocompatible was the one from Thymbra capitata hydrolate, in both cell lines. The decrease in NO production was consensual in all extracts, presenting a dose-response profile, like cell viability results. Regarding antifungal activity, only Thymbra capitata hydrolate showed a visual MIC for both microorganisms, with the complete growth inhibition occurring only at the highest tested concentration. The study of hydrolates should be deepened due to their numerous properties, as their anti-inflammatory activity combined with reduced cellular toxicity. Antifungal potential has also been demonstrated, but only at higher concentrations. It is then concluded that hydrolates have a great potential as cosmetic ingredients, since they retain some of the bioactivities present in essential oils combined with low cytotoxicity.
Description
Keywords
Atividade Anti-Inflamatória Atividade Antimicrobiana Hidrolatos Macrófagos Queratinócitos Viabilidade Celular