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Ingredientes ativos anti-acne para cosméticos
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O presente relatório foi realizado no âmbito da unidade curricular “Estágio” do Mestrado
Integrado em Ciências Farmacêuticas. É constituído por três capítulos que
correspondem à vertente de investigação, à experiência de estágio em Farmácia
Hospitalar e à experiência de estágio em Farmácia Comunitária.
O Capítulo 1 intitula-se “Ingredientes ativos anti-acne” e aborda os ativos anti-acne
utilizados em ingredientes comerciais para a formulação de produtos cosméticos
específicos para os cuidados da pele com acne. O presente trabalho teve como objetivo
identificar e analisar os principais ativos anti-acne que estão disponíveis para os
formuladores para serem integrados em formulações cosméticas comerciais, com foco
na sua origem e mecanismos de ação. Para tal, procedeu-se à recolha e sistematização de
informações de diferentes ingredientes ativos e à avaliação da sua frequência e
associações, através de motores de pesquisa de ingredientes cosméticos. Recolheu-se um
total de 272 agentes utilizados para agir em alvos cosméticos relevantes para a acne,
presentes num total de 397 ingredientes comerciais distintos. Após esta recolha, cada um
dos 272 ativos foi analisado de forma a perceber qual a sua origem, o seu mecanismo de
ação, em quantos ingredientes comerciais está presente e se é ou não associado a outros
ativos anti-acne. Os resultados evidenciaram que a maior parte dos agentes anti-acne
identificados são de origem natural (n=225; 82,72%). No que respeita ao mecanismo de
ação, observou-se que a maioria dos ingredientes apresenta apenas uma função
específica (n=160; 58,82%), destacando-se a anti-inflamatória (n=76; 47,50%). Nos
casos em que os compostos exibem dois mecanismos de ação, a associação mais
recorrente é entre as propriedades antimicrobiana e anti-inflamatória (n=44; 57,14%) e,
no caso, dos ingredientes com três mecanismos de ação, a tríade mais representativa foi
a ação antimicrobiana, anti-inflamatória e seborreguladora (n=19; 61,29%). Através
deste estudo também se conseguiu perceber que a maioria dos ingredientes comerciais
contam com apenas um ativo anti-acne (n=361; 90,93%), mas também se encontram
associações com até oito agentes utilizados para modular a acne. Estes dados contribuem
para uma melhor compreensão do panorama atual das formulações cosméticas anti-acne
e podem apoiar o desenvolvimento de novos produtos mais eficazes, seguros e bem
tolerados.
O Capítulo 2 refere-se à minha experiência de estágio em Farmácia Hospitalar realizada
no Hospital Amato Lusitano em Castelo Branco, entre 9 de setembro a 1 de novembro de
2024, sob orientação da Dra. Sandra Queimado. O Capítulo 3 diz respeito à minha experiência de estágio em Farmácia Comunitária
realizada na Farmácia Passos Carneiro em Fragoso, Braga, entre 11 de novembro de 2024
e 31 de janeiro de 2025, sob orientação da Dra. Iva Castro.
This report was prepared within the scope of the curricular unit “Internship” of the Integrated Master’s Degree in Pharmaceutical Sciences. It is composed of three chapters, which correspond to the research component, the internship experience in a Hospital Pharmacy, and the internship experience in a Community Pharmacy. The chapter 1, entitled “Anti-acne Active Ingredients”, addresses the anti-acne agents used in commercial ingredients for the formulation of cosmetic products specifically designed for acne-prone skin care. The main objective of this work was to identify and analyze the principal anti-acne actives available to formulators for integration into commercial cosmetic formulations, with a focus on their origin and mechanisms of action. To achieve this, information on different active ingredients was collected and systematized, and their frequency and associations were assessed using cosmetic ingredient search engines. A total of 272 agents were identified as acting on cosmetic targets relevant to acne, distributed across 397 distinct commercial ingredients. After this collection, each of the 272 actives was analyzed to determine its origin, mechanism of action, the number of commercial ingredients in which it appears, and whether or not it is associated with other anti-acne actives. The results showed that most of the identified anti-acne agents are of natural origin (n = 225; 82,72%). Regarding the mechanism of action, the majority of ingredients exhibit only one specific function (n = 160; 58,82%), with anti-inflammatory activity being the most prevalent (n = 76; 47,50%). In cases where compounds display two mechanisms of action, the most frequent combination was antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties (n = 44; 57,14%), and in case for ingredients exhibiting three mechanisms of action, the most representative triad was antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating activity (n = 19; 61,29%). This study also revealed that most commercial ingredients contain only one anti-acne active (n = 361; 90,93%), although combinations of up to eight agents used to modulate acne were also identified. These data contribute to a better understanding of the current panorama of anti-acne cosmetic formulations and may support the development of new products that are more effective, safe, and well-tolerated. The chapter 2 refers to my Hospital Pharmacy internship, carried out at Hospital Amato Lusitano in Castelo Branco, from September 9 to November 1, 2024, under the supervision of Dr. Sandra Queimado. The chapter 3 concerns my Community Pharmacy internship, carried out at Farmácia Passos Carneiro in Fragoso, Braga, from November 11, 2024, to January 31, 2025, under the supervision of Dr. Iva Castro.
This report was prepared within the scope of the curricular unit “Internship” of the Integrated Master’s Degree in Pharmaceutical Sciences. It is composed of three chapters, which correspond to the research component, the internship experience in a Hospital Pharmacy, and the internship experience in a Community Pharmacy. The chapter 1, entitled “Anti-acne Active Ingredients”, addresses the anti-acne agents used in commercial ingredients for the formulation of cosmetic products specifically designed for acne-prone skin care. The main objective of this work was to identify and analyze the principal anti-acne actives available to formulators for integration into commercial cosmetic formulations, with a focus on their origin and mechanisms of action. To achieve this, information on different active ingredients was collected and systematized, and their frequency and associations were assessed using cosmetic ingredient search engines. A total of 272 agents were identified as acting on cosmetic targets relevant to acne, distributed across 397 distinct commercial ingredients. After this collection, each of the 272 actives was analyzed to determine its origin, mechanism of action, the number of commercial ingredients in which it appears, and whether or not it is associated with other anti-acne actives. The results showed that most of the identified anti-acne agents are of natural origin (n = 225; 82,72%). Regarding the mechanism of action, the majority of ingredients exhibit only one specific function (n = 160; 58,82%), with anti-inflammatory activity being the most prevalent (n = 76; 47,50%). In cases where compounds display two mechanisms of action, the most frequent combination was antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties (n = 44; 57,14%), and in case for ingredients exhibiting three mechanisms of action, the most representative triad was antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating activity (n = 19; 61,29%). This study also revealed that most commercial ingredients contain only one anti-acne active (n = 361; 90,93%), although combinations of up to eight agents used to modulate acne were also identified. These data contribute to a better understanding of the current panorama of anti-acne cosmetic formulations and may support the development of new products that are more effective, safe, and well-tolerated. The chapter 2 refers to my Hospital Pharmacy internship, carried out at Hospital Amato Lusitano in Castelo Branco, from September 9 to November 1, 2024, under the supervision of Dr. Sandra Queimado. The chapter 3 concerns my Community Pharmacy internship, carried out at Farmácia Passos Carneiro in Fragoso, Braga, from November 11, 2024, to January 31, 2025, under the supervision of Dr. Iva Castro.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Acne Adstringente Anti-
Inflamatório Anti-Acne Antimicrobiano Cosmética Farmáciacomunitária Farmáciahospitalar Seborreguladora