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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
Este estudo centra-se na forma como as marcas de moda de luxo comunicam o seu
compromisso com a sustentabilidade, tendo como objetivo analisar a relação e a
coerência entre o discurso produzido sobre este tema e as práticas implementadas. A
investigação tem em consideração a ênfase crescente colocada por estas marcas na
produção sazonal (nalguns casos em detrimento dos seus “clássicos”) procurando
integrar e/ou gerar tendências que, por definição, se caracterizam pelo seu curto prazo
de validade. Agindo deste modo, torna-se legítimo questionar a sustentabilidade de
práticas que, tal como observamos no segmento conhecido como fast fashion,
privilegiam um sistema de drops frequentes e sucessivos, a rápida rotatividade e,
potencialmente, o descarte, em detrimento da qualidade e da durabilidade expectáveis
de uma marca de luxo — em paralelo com os constantes aumentos de preço que vêm
acontecendo no setor premium desde 2019. Tendo em vista a exposição e análise da
problemática exposta, a dissertação estrutura-se, primeiro, a partir do seu
enquadramento conceptual e, depois, da elaboração de um estudo de caso que tem como
objeto as marcas Prada e Gucci, observando-se o modo como estas (se) comunicam
através de distintas plataformas digitais e procurando compreender em que medida
duas das marcas de luxo com maior volume de vendas nos últimos anos demonstram o
seu compromisso com a sustentabilidade tanto ao nível do discurso que produzem, como
das práticas que implementam.
This research focuses on the way in which luxury fashion brands communicate their commitment to sustainability, aiming to examine the relationship and the coherence level existent between the discourse produced on this topic and the implemented practices. The study takes into account the increasing emphasis placed by these brands on seasonal production (in some cases to the detriment of their “classics”), seeking to integrate and/or generate trends that, by definition, are characterized by their short shelf life. Acting in this way, it becomes legitimate to question the sustainability of practices that, as we observe in the segment known as fast fashion, favor a system of frequent and successive drops, rapid turnover and, potentially, disposal, to the detriment of the quality and expected durability of a luxury brand — in parallel with the constant price increases that have been happening in the premium sector since 2019. With the intention of analyzing the described problems, the dissertation is structured, first, by its conceptual framework and, then, by the elaboration of a case study that focuses on the brands Prada and Gucci, observing the way in which they communicate through different digital platforms and seeking to understand to what extent two of the luxury brands that had the highest sales numbers in recent years demonstrates their commitment to sustainability both in terms of the discourse they produce and the practices they implement.
This research focuses on the way in which luxury fashion brands communicate their commitment to sustainability, aiming to examine the relationship and the coherence level existent between the discourse produced on this topic and the implemented practices. The study takes into account the increasing emphasis placed by these brands on seasonal production (in some cases to the detriment of their “classics”), seeking to integrate and/or generate trends that, by definition, are characterized by their short shelf life. Acting in this way, it becomes legitimate to question the sustainability of practices that, as we observe in the segment known as fast fashion, favor a system of frequent and successive drops, rapid turnover and, potentially, disposal, to the detriment of the quality and expected durability of a luxury brand — in parallel with the constant price increases that have been happening in the premium sector since 2019. With the intention of analyzing the described problems, the dissertation is structured, first, by its conceptual framework and, then, by the elaboration of a case study that focuses on the brands Prada and Gucci, observing the way in which they communicate through different digital platforms and seeking to understand to what extent two of the luxury brands that had the highest sales numbers in recent years demonstrates their commitment to sustainability both in terms of the discourse they produce and the practices they implement.
Description
Keywords
Branding Consumo Conspícuo Greenwashing Moda de Luxo Sustentabilidade