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Abstract(s)
A moda reflete a histĂłria de um momento das sociedades, a cultura de um povo
bem como importantes influĂȘncias sociais (Roselle, 1980), desde as vestes rupestres atĂ©
aos vestidos de Alta-Costura mais ornamentados que vemos hoje em dia em grandes
eventos. O conceito de moda estĂĄ presente na sociedade desde o inĂcio da existĂȘncia do
vestuĂĄrio, apesar de afirmar que identificar o momento histĂłrico em que a moda emerge
pela primeira vez Ă© difĂcil, segundo Giorgio Riello (2012).
A metamorfose que se verifica nas criaçÔes, especialmente nas que surgiram no
século XX, aquele que é chamado da moda dos cem anos, deve-se à multiplicidade de
eventos que ocorreram ao longo do século que mais marcou a sociedade e que obrigou
os indivĂduos a ter outros comportamentos de vida e de consumo, jĂĄ que foi um sĂ©culo
repleto de guerras, evoluçÔes tecnológicas e aproximação de naçÔes até então divididas
por oceanos. âO estilo democrĂĄtico sĂłbrio tambĂ©m nĂŁo se impĂŽs uniformemente. Paralelemente Ă s toilettes de dia simples e leves, a Alta-Costura nĂŁo deixou de criar vestidos
de noite sumptuosos, sofisticados, hiperfemininos. A moda dos cem anos aprofundou a
distĂąncia entre os diferentes tipos de vestuĂĄrio feminino.â (Lipovestly, 2010).
A procura por uma qualidade de vida melhor aliou-se ao desenvolvimento de novos meios de funcionamento das sociedades como por exemplo a abertura das portas
laborais para as mulheres em resposta Ă falta de trabalhadores, uma vez que os homens
haviam partido em combate. Tal ponto evolutivo nĂŁo regrediu quando a guerra terminou,
pois o gosto pela nova rotina perdurou, o que levou à criação de novos postos de trabalho
e ao alargamento de funçÔes nas mais diversas indĂșstrias. Assim, os novos hĂĄbitos de
vida aliam-se a novos hĂĄbitos e necessidade de consumo o que obrigou aos criativos de
moda a ajustarem-se às novas realidades das sociedades de consumo e a criarem peças
de vestuĂĄrio que coincidissem com esta nova realidade.
TambĂ©m com o desenvolvimento da indĂșstria tĂȘxtil e os avanços na tecnologia, a
indĂșstria da moda evoluiu no sentido em que passou a produzir mais, uma vez que tambĂ©m exportava mais para outros paĂses, o que despoletou, em parte, as guerras de tendĂȘncias e de imitação de criaçÔes por parte dos Estados Unidos da AmĂ©rica face Ă s criaçÔes da moda francesa, que era vanguarda em todo o lado.
NĂŁo sĂł com a criação de peças de vestuĂĄrio, inovação e criatividade a indĂșstria da
moda se propagava: a criação de publicaçÔes especializadas, que contava com a presença
de artigos e entrevistas sobre o meio da moda, veio permitir que a indĂșstria passasse a
difundir-se mundialmente. O presente estudo tem como objetos de investigação a história de Moda do século
XX e XXI e os elementos externos aos criadores de moda, mas que fazem parte do meio
da moda. Os objetivos em anålise procuram responder à questão inicial de investigação:
A Moda influencia a Sociedade Moderna?
De modo a responder e atingir os objetivos propostos, foi feita uma revisĂŁo bibliogrĂĄfica sobre a histĂłria de moda e a evolução das criaçÔes de moda, assim como os fatores externos Ă s criaçÔes de moda, mas que fazem parte da indĂșstria da moda aquando
da sua produção e promoção. Considerou-se a metodologia de Cervo & Bervian (2002) -
ârecomenda-se o estudo exploratĂłrio quando hĂĄ pouco conhecimento sobre o problema
a ser estudadoâ- com o intuito de apresentar novas ideias a partir da familiarização com
o tema de foco de estudo. Este tipo de pesquisa ânĂŁo requer a elaboração de hipĂłteses a
serem testadas no trabalho, redigindo-se a definir e a pesquisar mais informaçÔes sobre
determinado assunto de estudoâ. Uma vez que a produção de moda Ă© um tema pouco
explorado, dada a fraca bibliografia relacionada com o tema, a escolha do método de
pesquisa de carĂĄter exploratĂłrio deve-se a esta lacuna, visando o prĂłprio estudo ser um
objeto de pesquisas futuras.
âA ideia de que a moda seria uma maneira de a sociedade tomar a palavra Ă© hoje
comumente aceite. Na imprensa, essa conceção brota espontaneamente quando se tenta
explicar o surgimento de uma tendĂȘncia. As formas arredondadas revelariam a nostalgia
por uma Ă©poca feliz etc.â1 (Erner, 2015).
Fashion reflects the history of specific time in the society, the culture of people as well is as important social influences (Roselle, 1980). The concept of fashion has been present in society since the beginning of the existence of clothing, despite stating that identifying the historical moment in which fashion first emerges is difficult, according to Giorgio Riello (2012). From the medieval rags to the more ornate Haute Couture dresses, we see today at major events. The metamorphosis that occurs in the creations made, especially in the 20th century, what is called the hundred years fashion, is due to the multiplicity of events that occurred throughout the century that most marked society and forced individuals to have other behaviors. of life and consumption, since it was a century full of wars, technological developments, and the approximation of nations untilthen divided by oceans. !The sober democratic style did not impose itself uniformly either. In addition to the simple and light day care, Haute Couture has not stopped creating sumptuous, sophisticated, hyperfeminine evening dresses. The hundred years fashion has deepened the distance between different types of women's clothing.â (Lipovestly, 2010). The search for a better quality of life was related to the development of new ways of functioning of societies, for example, the opening of work doors for women in response to the lack of workers, since men had left in combat. This evolutionary point did not go back when the war ended, as the taste for the new routine persisted, which allowed for the creation of new jobs and the expansion of functions in the most diverse industries. Thus, new lifestyle habits are combined with new consumption habits and needs, which forced fashion creatives to adjust to the new realities of consumer societies and to create garments that coincided with this new reality. Also, with the development of the textile industry and advances in technology, the fashion industry evolved in a way that it started to produce more, as it also exported more to other countries, which triggered, in part, the wars of trends and imitation of creations by the United States of America compared to the creations of French fashion, which was avant-garde everywhere. Not only with the creation of garments and the innovation and creativity that the fashion industry spread: the creation of specialized magazines that had the presence of articles and interviews about the fashion environment, allowed the industry to spread the word worldwide. !The idea that fashion would be a way for society to speak out is now commonly accepted. In the press, this conception emerges spontaneously when trying to explain the emergence of a trend. The rounded shapes would reveal nostalgia for a happy time etc.â2 (Erner, 2015).
Fashion reflects the history of specific time in the society, the culture of people as well is as important social influences (Roselle, 1980). The concept of fashion has been present in society since the beginning of the existence of clothing, despite stating that identifying the historical moment in which fashion first emerges is difficult, according to Giorgio Riello (2012). From the medieval rags to the more ornate Haute Couture dresses, we see today at major events. The metamorphosis that occurs in the creations made, especially in the 20th century, what is called the hundred years fashion, is due to the multiplicity of events that occurred throughout the century that most marked society and forced individuals to have other behaviors. of life and consumption, since it was a century full of wars, technological developments, and the approximation of nations untilthen divided by oceans. !The sober democratic style did not impose itself uniformly either. In addition to the simple and light day care, Haute Couture has not stopped creating sumptuous, sophisticated, hyperfeminine evening dresses. The hundred years fashion has deepened the distance between different types of women's clothing.â (Lipovestly, 2010). The search for a better quality of life was related to the development of new ways of functioning of societies, for example, the opening of work doors for women in response to the lack of workers, since men had left in combat. This evolutionary point did not go back when the war ended, as the taste for the new routine persisted, which allowed for the creation of new jobs and the expansion of functions in the most diverse industries. Thus, new lifestyle habits are combined with new consumption habits and needs, which forced fashion creatives to adjust to the new realities of consumer societies and to create garments that coincided with this new reality. Also, with the development of the textile industry and advances in technology, the fashion industry evolved in a way that it started to produce more, as it also exported more to other countries, which triggered, in part, the wars of trends and imitation of creations by the United States of America compared to the creations of French fashion, which was avant-garde everywhere. Not only with the creation of garments and the innovation and creativity that the fashion industry spread: the creation of specialized magazines that had the presence of articles and interviews about the fashion environment, allowed the industry to spread the word worldwide. !The idea that fashion would be a way for society to speak out is now commonly accepted. In the press, this conception emerges spontaneously when trying to explain the emergence of a trend. The rounded shapes would reveal nostalgia for a happy time etc.â2 (Erner, 2015).
Description
Keywords
Fotografia de Moda História de Moda Produção de Moda Produtor de Moda