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Abstract(s)
O corpo feminino sempre foi subjugado à padrões e estereótipos de beleza,
encontrando na Moda uma das contribuições mais intensas de opressão estética ao
longo da história: o espartilho e a silhueta. Contudo, ao mesmo tempo em que contribui
para a construção, a Moda também tem suas maneiras de quebrar os próprios
paradigmas, como é o caso do segmento plus size.
Com base nestas relações oscilantes entre corpo e moda, o presente trabalho
tem como objetivo discutir as representações sociais das modelos com sobrepeso que
ocupam lugares de destaque na comunicação das marcas de Moda plus size e verificar
como o branding é capaz de orientar as empresas para que esta representação não seja
rasa e irrelevante.
Dessa forma, a revisão da literatura explora o percurso da história da Moda,
compreendendo-a como um fenômeno social, e a origem do segmento plus size até a
sua propagação em um movimento social que passou a simbolizar não apenas uma
indumentária, mas uma resistência ao padrão de beleza vigente na sociedade moderna.
Também expõe os divergentes pontos de vista sobre a obesidade, apresentando os
conceitos de identidade e visibilidade do corpo gordo; e, por fim, aborda os elementos e
desdobramentos do branding de marca.
O objetivo é investigar a comunicação das marcas de Moda plus size, isto é, a
forma com as quais elas se relacionam com a identidade e comunicação da marca, com
a finalidade de compreender se e como acontece o processo de identificação e
representação das mesmas com seus consumidores.
O estudo foi realizado por meio de uma pesquisa bibliográfica em diferentes
áreas do conhecimento da temática e uma componente intervencionista de análise do
consumidor com recolha de dados através de um inquérito, uma abordagem
quantitativa a fim de analisar de forma mais precisa a relação entre a consumidora e a
comunicação da Moda plus size.
À vista disso, este trabalho mostra-se relevante, pois abrange o branding e o
design de Moda para compreender as relações de mercado e o comportamento de
compra da consumidora plus size e, sobretudo, aborda dois temas profundamente
intrínsecos no desenvolvimento das sociedades contemporâneas: o corpo percebido
como uma forma de mercadoria e a representatividade de minorias marginalizadas.
Mais do que qualquer outro mercado atualmente, o segmento de Moda plus size
não pode ser restringido somente ao vestuário, pois evoca inúmeras questões
emocionais, sociológicas e até mesmo morais que permeiam a sociedade e a cultura ocidental. A consumidora plus size contemporânea exige cada vez mais por
engajamento do mercado da Moda na sua própria representação e inclusão e, por conta
disso, as marcas que não conseguirem alinhar-se a esses aspectos, nem posicionar
corretamente a sua comunicação, serão lembradas cada vez menos – seja devido à falta
de identificação com a marca, seja devido à sensação de falsa representatividade da
mulher plus size relacionada aos modelos.
Também o grande impacto causado pelo discurso do movimento body positive
nos diversos setores da sociedade ocidental, conclui-se da necessidade sobre a
naturalização de todas as formas físicas, sejam elas muito gordas ou muito magras,
uma vez que a ideia é aceitar e viver a individualidade de cada corpo - desde que este
seja um corpo saudável; e com isso a designação do segmento plus size evoluir para a
sua comunicação ao consumidor em “para todos os tipos de corpos”.
The female body has always been expected to live up to standards and stereotypes of beauty, when talking about Fashion, we can find one of the most intense contributions of aesthetic oppression throughout history: the corset and the silhouette. However, while contributing to build them, Fashion also has its own ways of breaking paradigms, as is the case with the plus size market. Based on these oscillating relationships between body and fashion, this paper aims to discuss the social representation of overweight models that occupy prominent places in the plus size Fashion brands social communication and to verify how branding is able to guide companies so that this representation is not shallow and irrelevant. In this way, by reviewing this type of literature one explores the course of Fashion’s history, understanding it as a social phenomenon, and the origin of the plus size market all the way up to its propagation in a social movement that has come to symbolize not only an outfit, but also a resistance to the standard of beauty enforced in today’s society. It also exposes the divergent points of view on obesity, presenting the concepts of identity and visibility of the fat body; and, finally, addressing the elements and development of branding. The main objective is to investigate the social communication of plus size Fashion brands, in other words, the way in which they relate to the identity and social communication of the brand, in order to understand whether and how the process of identifying and representing them with its consumers. This study was carried out through bibliographic research in different areas of knowledge of the theme and an interventionist component of consumer analysis with data collection through a survey in order to analyze in a more precise way the relationship between the consumer and the plus size Fashion social communication. From that point of view, this paper is relevant as it uses branding and Fashion design to understand the market relationship and the buying behavior of the plus size consumer. Above all, it addresses two deeply intrinsic topics in the development of contemporary societies: the body perceived as a merchandising product and the representation of marginalized minorities. More than any other market today, the plus size Fashion cannot be restricted to clothing alone, as it evokes numerous emotional, sociological and even moral issues that permeate our society and our culture. The contemporary plus size consumer demands more and more for engagement of the Fashion market in its own representation and inclusion and, because of this, brands that are unable to align themselves with these aspects, nor position their social communication correctly, will be remembered each time less and less - either due to the lack of identification with the brand, or due to the feeling of false representation of the plus size woman related to the models. Also, the great impact caused by the discourse of the body positive movement in several sectors of our society, concludes the need for the naturalization of all physical forms, whether they are very fat or very thin, since the idea is to accept and live the individuality of each body - as long as it is a healthy body; and, with that, the designation of the plus size segment evolved to its communication to the consumer in “for all types of bodies”.
The female body has always been expected to live up to standards and stereotypes of beauty, when talking about Fashion, we can find one of the most intense contributions of aesthetic oppression throughout history: the corset and the silhouette. However, while contributing to build them, Fashion also has its own ways of breaking paradigms, as is the case with the plus size market. Based on these oscillating relationships between body and fashion, this paper aims to discuss the social representation of overweight models that occupy prominent places in the plus size Fashion brands social communication and to verify how branding is able to guide companies so that this representation is not shallow and irrelevant. In this way, by reviewing this type of literature one explores the course of Fashion’s history, understanding it as a social phenomenon, and the origin of the plus size market all the way up to its propagation in a social movement that has come to symbolize not only an outfit, but also a resistance to the standard of beauty enforced in today’s society. It also exposes the divergent points of view on obesity, presenting the concepts of identity and visibility of the fat body; and, finally, addressing the elements and development of branding. The main objective is to investigate the social communication of plus size Fashion brands, in other words, the way in which they relate to the identity and social communication of the brand, in order to understand whether and how the process of identifying and representing them with its consumers. This study was carried out through bibliographic research in different areas of knowledge of the theme and an interventionist component of consumer analysis with data collection through a survey in order to analyze in a more precise way the relationship between the consumer and the plus size Fashion social communication. From that point of view, this paper is relevant as it uses branding and Fashion design to understand the market relationship and the buying behavior of the plus size consumer. Above all, it addresses two deeply intrinsic topics in the development of contemporary societies: the body perceived as a merchandising product and the representation of marginalized minorities. More than any other market today, the plus size Fashion cannot be restricted to clothing alone, as it evokes numerous emotional, sociological and even moral issues that permeate our society and our culture. The contemporary plus size consumer demands more and more for engagement of the Fashion market in its own representation and inclusion and, because of this, brands that are unable to align themselves with these aspects, nor position their social communication correctly, will be remembered each time less and less - either due to the lack of identification with the brand, or due to the feeling of false representation of the plus size woman related to the models. Also, the great impact caused by the discourse of the body positive movement in several sectors of our society, concludes the need for the naturalization of all physical forms, whether they are very fat or very thin, since the idea is to accept and live the individuality of each body - as long as it is a healthy body; and, with that, the designation of the plus size segment evolved to its communication to the consumer in “for all types of bodies”.
Description
Keywords
Branding Corpo Feminino Design de Moda Moda Plus Size