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Abstract(s)
Esta dissertação apresenta um breve levantamento de factos históricos sobre a
evolução do sector das malhas, bem como os grandes avanços verificados nos últimos anos,
que podem ser vistos como peças de vestuário funcionais. Estas peças passaram a ser de moda
vanguardistas e utilizam tecnologias mais avançadas.
A primeira evidência de alteração nas malhas que modificou o seu papel de funcional
para moderno ocorreu durante o inicio do século XX, quando as peças de malha evoluíram de
roupa interior para exterior. Desde então, a sua evolução nunca mais estagnou.
Vários designers, tais como: Coco Chanel, pioneira na introdução das malhas no
mundo da moda; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jean Paul Glautier; Issey Miyake; entre outros profissionais
têm vindo a criar abordagens inovadoras nesta área, criando dessa forma uma linguagem não
convencional.
Graças às suas características de maleabilidade, textura e elasticidade, as estruturas
em malha possibilitam a criação de inúmeros efeitos, desde drapeados, torcidos, entre
outros, que na maioria dos tecidos convencionais e não - tecidos não é possível. O presente
projecto resulta da reflexão destes assuntos em fusão com técnicas tradicionais para a
criação de uma colecção de moda.
This dissertation present a brief survey of historical facts about the evolution of the knitwear sector, as well the great advances in recent years, which can be seen as functional garments. This garments become to be avant-garde fashion using the most advanced technologies. The first evidence of knitwear changing its role from functional to fashionable occurred during the early part of the 20th century, when the knitwear pieces has evolved from underwear to outwear. Since then, knitwear evolution has never stagnated. Several designers, such as: Coco Chanel, the pioneer in the introduction of knitwear in fashion; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jean Paul Glautier; Issey Miyake; and other professionals have been creating innovative approaches in this area, thereby creating an unconventional language. Thanks to their characteristics of malleability, texture and elasticity, the knitwear structures allow the creation of numerous effects, since drapes, twists, among others, which in many conventional fabrics and non - fabrics is not possible. This project results in the reflection of these issues with traditional fusion techniques for creating a fashion collection.
This dissertation present a brief survey of historical facts about the evolution of the knitwear sector, as well the great advances in recent years, which can be seen as functional garments. This garments become to be avant-garde fashion using the most advanced technologies. The first evidence of knitwear changing its role from functional to fashionable occurred during the early part of the 20th century, when the knitwear pieces has evolved from underwear to outwear. Since then, knitwear evolution has never stagnated. Several designers, such as: Coco Chanel, the pioneer in the introduction of knitwear in fashion; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jean Paul Glautier; Issey Miyake; and other professionals have been creating innovative approaches in this area, thereby creating an unconventional language. Thanks to their characteristics of malleability, texture and elasticity, the knitwear structures allow the creation of numerous effects, since drapes, twists, among others, which in many conventional fabrics and non - fabrics is not possible. This project results in the reflection of these issues with traditional fusion techniques for creating a fashion collection.
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Keywords
Design Evolução Malhas Moda