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Abstract(s)
A presente dissertação realizada no âmbito da unidade curricular “Estágio” do Mestrado
Integrado em Ciências Farmacêuticas, encontra-se dividida em dois capítulos que
correspondem à vertente de Investigação e à vertente de Farmácia Comunitária.
O primeiro capítulo aborda a temática dos cosméticos naturais e sustentáveis como uma
tendência expressa em rotulagem e certificação. A literatura demonstra que o consumidor
está cada vez mais empenhado em seguir um estilo de vida sustentável, o que se reflete nas
suas decisões de compra relativamente a produtos cosméticos. A crescente conscientização
do impacto ambiental humano e das suas consequências para a saúde, pode ser o motivo
do surgimento do atual consumidor verde. Porém, este consumidor encontra-se
desinformado e reticente face às alegações de sustentabilidade que, muitas vezes são
efetuadas para promover o conceito de “Greenwashing”. É neste contexto, que se destacam
os símbolos credíveis oferecidos por organismos de certificação europeus, os quais, são
definidos por critérios ambientais e de qualidade a serem cumpridos por produtos
cosméticos. De forma a identificar a comunicação de conceitos de sustentabilidade em
rótulos de produtos cosméticos, em Portugal, foi realizado um estudo em cerca de 300
produtos cosméticos disponíveis em grandes supermercados e lojas online. Foram
estudados produtos cujos rótulos continham alegações (imagens ou palavras) alusivas aos
termos “natural”, “bio”, “orgânico”, “ecológico”, “eco-friendly”, “sustentável” ou outras
relacionadas com sustentabilidade. Dos produtos analisados verificou-se que 44,7%
apresentaram símbolos ou palavras publicitárias gerais (ex: "BIO"; "X% origem natural") e
55,3% apresentaram símbolos de certificação. Os padrões identificados foram: 17%
Ecocert Cosmos Organic; 10,7% Cosmebio; 9,7% Natrue; 8,3% Ecocert; 4,7% Cosmebio
Cosmos Organic; 3% Ecocert Cosmos Natural e BDIH; 1,7% ICEA Cosmos Organic and
Soil Association Cosmos Organic; 1,3% BDIH Cosmos Natural; 1% EU Ecolabel e NCS;
0,7% Cosmetici Biologici e 0,33% Soil Association Cosmos Natural, ICEA Eco Bio
Cosmesi, Nordic Swan Ecolabel e BDIH Cosmos Organic. Outros símbolos observados
relacionam-se com conceitos gerais de sustentabilidade e não com a composição do
produto. Conclui-se assim, que embora todos os símbolos estejam relacionados à
sustentabilidade, existem diferenças ao nível dos critérios de classificação, o que pode não
ser claro para o consumidor. Deste modo, mais esforços deveriam ser realizados no
sentido de harmonizar os diferentes símbolos de certificação existentes na Europa num
único símbolo de certificação reconhecido internacionalmente. O segundo capítulo diz respeito ao conjunto de atividades desenvolvidas durante
aproximadamente seis meses no estágio em Farmácia Comunitária, em Moimenta da
Beira, sob orientação da Dr. Elisabete Lopes Carvas.
The present dissertation carried out within the scope of the traineeship course of the Integrated Master in Pharmaceutical Sciences is divided into two chapters which correspond to the Research and Community Pharmacy experiences. The first chapter addresses the theme of natural and sustainable cosmetics as a trend expressed in labelling and certification. The literature shows that the consumer is increasingly committed to follow a sustainable lifestyle, which is reflected in their purchase decisions regarding cosmetic products. The growing awareness of the human environmental impact and its consequences for health, may be the reason for the emergence of the current green consumer. However, this consumer is uninformed and reticent regarding the sustainability claims that are often made to promote the concept of “Greenwashing”. It is in this context that the credible symbols offered by European certification bodies stand out, which are defined by environmental and quality criteria to be fulfilled by cosmetic products. In order to identify the communication concepts of sustainability on cosmetic product labels, in Portugal, a study was carried out on about 300 cosmetic products available in supermarkets and online stores. The products were selected based on claims included in labels (images or words) alluding to the terms "natural", "bio", "organic", "ecological", "eco-friendly", "sustainable" or others related to sustainability. Taking in account the analyzed products, it was found that 44.7% presented general symbols or advertising words (ex: "BIO"; "X% natural origin") and 55.3% brought forward symbols of certification. The patterns identified were: 17% Ecocert Cosmos Organic; 10.7% Cosmebium; 9.7% Natrue; 8.3% Ecocert; 4.7% Cosmebium Cosmos Organic; 3% Ecocert Cosmos Natural and BDIH; 1.7% ICEA Cosmos Organic and Soil Association Cosmos Organic; 1.3% BDIH Cosmos Natural; 1% EU Ecolabel and NCS; 0.7% Cosmetici Biologici and 0.33% Soil Association Cosmos Natural, ICEA Eco Bio Cosmesi, Nordic Swan Ecolabel and BDIH Cosmos Organic. Other symbols observed relate to general concepts of sustainability and not to the composition of the product. It is concluded that although all symbols are related to sustainability, there are differences in the classification criteria, which may not be clear to the consumer. In this way, further efforts should be made to harmonize the different certification symbols in Europe into a single international recognized certification symbol. The second chapter concerns the set of activities developed during approximately six months in the community pharmacy internship, in Moimenta da Beira, under the guidance of Dr. Elisabete Lopes Carvas.
The present dissertation carried out within the scope of the traineeship course of the Integrated Master in Pharmaceutical Sciences is divided into two chapters which correspond to the Research and Community Pharmacy experiences. The first chapter addresses the theme of natural and sustainable cosmetics as a trend expressed in labelling and certification. The literature shows that the consumer is increasingly committed to follow a sustainable lifestyle, which is reflected in their purchase decisions regarding cosmetic products. The growing awareness of the human environmental impact and its consequences for health, may be the reason for the emergence of the current green consumer. However, this consumer is uninformed and reticent regarding the sustainability claims that are often made to promote the concept of “Greenwashing”. It is in this context that the credible symbols offered by European certification bodies stand out, which are defined by environmental and quality criteria to be fulfilled by cosmetic products. In order to identify the communication concepts of sustainability on cosmetic product labels, in Portugal, a study was carried out on about 300 cosmetic products available in supermarkets and online stores. The products were selected based on claims included in labels (images or words) alluding to the terms "natural", "bio", "organic", "ecological", "eco-friendly", "sustainable" or others related to sustainability. Taking in account the analyzed products, it was found that 44.7% presented general symbols or advertising words (ex: "BIO"; "X% natural origin") and 55.3% brought forward symbols of certification. The patterns identified were: 17% Ecocert Cosmos Organic; 10.7% Cosmebium; 9.7% Natrue; 8.3% Ecocert; 4.7% Cosmebium Cosmos Organic; 3% Ecocert Cosmos Natural and BDIH; 1.7% ICEA Cosmos Organic and Soil Association Cosmos Organic; 1.3% BDIH Cosmos Natural; 1% EU Ecolabel and NCS; 0.7% Cosmetici Biologici and 0.33% Soil Association Cosmos Natural, ICEA Eco Bio Cosmesi, Nordic Swan Ecolabel and BDIH Cosmos Organic. Other symbols observed relate to general concepts of sustainability and not to the composition of the product. It is concluded that although all symbols are related to sustainability, there are differences in the classification criteria, which may not be clear to the consumer. In this way, further efforts should be made to harmonize the different certification symbols in Europe into a single international recognized certification symbol. The second chapter concerns the set of activities developed during approximately six months in the community pharmacy internship, in Moimenta da Beira, under the guidance of Dr. Elisabete Lopes Carvas.
Description
Keywords
Comportamento do
Consumidor Cosméticos Naturais Cosméticos Verdes Orgânico Símbolos de Certificação Sustentabilidade