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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
A produção excessiva no mercado da moda tornou-se um problema global devido aos danos
causados pelo desperdício de matéria-prima, poluição ambiental e acumulação de resíduos de
vestuário. Com o objectivo de reduzir esses danos negativos, têm surgido conceitos como moda
sustentável e moda ecológica, na tentativa de redirecionar o rumo deste e de outros setores,
incluindo o cinema, teatro e outras artes performativas, que têm vindo a adotar cada vez mais
práticas sustentáveis para minimizar o seu impacto ambiental.
A utilização de vestuário de segunda mão na área do design de moda está em ascensão, ganhando
destaque entre designers e investigadores como uma abordagem que promove a sustentabilidade.
No entanto, é importante salientar que a reutilização de peças de segunda mão na criação de
figurinos para cinema, teatro e outras artes performativas é uma prática tradicionalmente
enraizada na história de cada uma dessas áreas. No entanto, há uma falta de discussão sobre as
técnicas e metodologias envolvidas neste processo. A ausência de discussão no meio académico
indica uma desconexão entre a experiência do mercado de trabalho e a produção académica, bem
como entre os diversos setores do Design.
O projeto de investigação que se segue tem como objectivo compreender de que forma a conceção
de figurinos com simbolismo narrativo ocorre ao utilizar vestuário de segunda mão. A pesquisa
pretende enriquecer a produção bibliográfica no campo do figurinismo e da moda e fomentar a
integração entre as diversas áreas do Design, analisando os métodos utilizados na criação de
figurinos e partilhando-os com outros setores.
Desta forma, e através da revisão bibliográfica e do estudo de diversos autores, é apresentada uma
metodologia mista, não intervencionista e intervencionista. Na sua vertente não intervencionista,
procura-se estabelecer as bases para a incorporação de figurinos com uma abordagem sustentável
no contexto da indústria cinematográfica, destacando métodos pouco debatidos na área do
figurinismo, como o garimpo e o upcycling. Na abordagem intervencionista, é apresentado um
método de criação que é reproduzido num projeto de figurino para um filme universitário. Estes
métodos são apresentados de forma científica, para que possam ser posteriormente estudados e
aplicados não apenas no figurinismo, mas também em outras áreas.
Overproduction in the fashion market has become a global problem due to the damage caused by the waste of raw materials, environmental pollution and the accumulation of clothing waste. In order to reduce this negative damage, concepts such as sustainable fashion and eco-fashion have emerged, in an attempt to redirect the course of this and other sectors including cinema, theater and other performing arts, which have increasingly adopted sustainable practices to minimize their environmental impact. The use of second-hand clothing in the field of fashion design is on the rise, gaining prominence among designers and researchers as an approach that promotes sustainability. However, it is important to note that the reuse of second-hand garments in the creation of costumes for film, theater and other performing arts is a practice traditionally rooted in the history of each of these areas. However, there is a lack of discussion about the techniques and methodologies involved in this process. The lack of discussion in academia indicates a disconnect between the experience of the job market and academic production, as well as between the various sectors of Design. The research project presented below aims to understand how the design of costumes with narrative symbolism occurs when using second-hand clothing. The research aims to enrich the bibliographic production in the field of costume design and fashion and to encourage integration between the various areas of design, analyzing the methods used to create costumes and sharing them with other sectors. In this way, and through a literature review and the study of various authors, a mixed methodology is presented, both non-interventionist and interventionist. The non-interventionist approach seeks to lay the foundations for the incorporation of costumes with a sustainable approach in the context of the film industry, by highlighting methods that are little debated in the field of costume design, such as garimpo and upcycling. In the interventionist approach, a creation method is presented which is reproduced in a costume project for a university film. These methods are presented in a scientific way, so that they can be studied and applied not only in costume design, but also in other areas.
Overproduction in the fashion market has become a global problem due to the damage caused by the waste of raw materials, environmental pollution and the accumulation of clothing waste. In order to reduce this negative damage, concepts such as sustainable fashion and eco-fashion have emerged, in an attempt to redirect the course of this and other sectors including cinema, theater and other performing arts, which have increasingly adopted sustainable practices to minimize their environmental impact. The use of second-hand clothing in the field of fashion design is on the rise, gaining prominence among designers and researchers as an approach that promotes sustainability. However, it is important to note that the reuse of second-hand garments in the creation of costumes for film, theater and other performing arts is a practice traditionally rooted in the history of each of these areas. However, there is a lack of discussion about the techniques and methodologies involved in this process. The lack of discussion in academia indicates a disconnect between the experience of the job market and academic production, as well as between the various sectors of Design. The research project presented below aims to understand how the design of costumes with narrative symbolism occurs when using second-hand clothing. The research aims to enrich the bibliographic production in the field of costume design and fashion and to encourage integration between the various areas of design, analyzing the methods used to create costumes and sharing them with other sectors. In this way, and through a literature review and the study of various authors, a mixed methodology is presented, both non-interventionist and interventionist. The non-interventionist approach seeks to lay the foundations for the incorporation of costumes with a sustainable approach in the context of the film industry, by highlighting methods that are little debated in the field of costume design, such as garimpo and upcycling. In the interventionist approach, a creation method is presented which is reproduced in a costume project for a university film. These methods are presented in a scientific way, so that they can be studied and applied not only in costume design, but also in other areas.
Description
Keywords
Cinema Figurino Moda Sustentável Roupas de Segunda Mão Sustentabilidade Upcyling