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Authors
Abstract(s)
Os meios de comunicação, de acordo com Jenkins (2008) , além de transmissores de
informação, moldam o pensamento e a sensibilidade dos indivíduos, e interferem
diretamente nas relações entre marcas e consumidores. Segundo o relatório do Instituto
de Pesquisa Econômica Aplicada (IPEA, 2015), o meio ambiente e´ o receptor de toda
ac¸a~o humana, pois sofre as consequências da dina^mica da pro´pria natureza e aquelas
provindas das dimenso~es: populac¸a~o e sociedade; geopoli´tica; cie^ncia e tecnologia; e
economia. Por outro lado, em consonância com a Global Fashion Agenda (2020), as
emissões poluentes da indústria da Moda representam hoje 10% do total global, podendo
aumentar para 2,7 bilhões de toneladas por ano até 2030. Além da dinâmica econômica
que pressiona os recursos naturais de forma direta, a alteração de padro~es de consumo
pode afetar positiva ou negativamente o meio ambiente, assim como a
consciencialização dos consumidores e das empresas. Face à informação que temos
disponível na atualidade, debater sobre sustentabilidade, moda e greenwashing é
urgente e complexo. Greenwashing - ou, em portugue^s, “Lavagem Verde” - é uma tática
de marketing que as marcas utilizam para parecer mais sustentáveis do que realmente
são. As técnicas de greenwashing vão desde a utilização da cor verde - que,
semioticamente, tendemos a perceber como símbolo de sustentabilidade -, até à
utilização de etiquetas, selos e informações falsas ou enganadoras. O objetivo desta
pesquisa é analisar a prática de greenwashing por marcas de moda e o impacto deste
tipo de estratégia(s) na percepção dos consumidores. Foi aplicada uma metodologia de
investigação mista que, além da revisão bibliográfica, inclui igualmente um estudo de
caso no qual são analisadas as marcas H&M, Zara, Patagonia e Levi's, bem como a
aplicação de um inquérito a consumidores de diferentes gerações e experiências de
trabalho e/ou formação.
The media, according to Jenkins (2008), transmit information, shape the thinking of individuals, and directly interfere in the relationships between brands and consumers. According to the report by the Instituto de Pesquisa Econômica Aplicada (IPEA, 2015), the environment is the receptor of all human action, as it suffers the consequences of the dynamics of nature itself and those arising from the dimensions: population and society; geopolitics; science and technology; and economy. In line with the Global Fashion Agenda (2020), polluting emissions from the fashion industry currently represent 10% of the global total, and could increase to 2.7 billion tons per year by 2030. In addition to the economic dynamics that pressure natural resources directly, changing consumption patterns can positively or negatively affect the environment, as well as the awareness of consumers and companies. Given the information we currently have available, debating sustainability, fashion and greenwashing is urgent and complex. Greenwashing - or, in Portuguese, “Green Wash” - is a marketing tactic that brands use to appear more sustainable than they really are. Greenwashing techniques range from the use of the color green - which, semiotically, we tend to perceive as a symbol of sustainability - to the use of labels, stamps and false or misleading information. The objective of this research is to analyze the practice of greenwashing by fashion brands and the impact of this type of strategy(ies) on the consumer perception. A mixed research methodology was applied which, in addition to the literature review, also includes a case study in which the brands H&M, Zara, Patagonia and Levi's are analyzed, as well as the application of a survey to consumers of different generations and work experiences and/or training.
The media, according to Jenkins (2008), transmit information, shape the thinking of individuals, and directly interfere in the relationships between brands and consumers. According to the report by the Instituto de Pesquisa Econômica Aplicada (IPEA, 2015), the environment is the receptor of all human action, as it suffers the consequences of the dynamics of nature itself and those arising from the dimensions: population and society; geopolitics; science and technology; and economy. In line with the Global Fashion Agenda (2020), polluting emissions from the fashion industry currently represent 10% of the global total, and could increase to 2.7 billion tons per year by 2030. In addition to the economic dynamics that pressure natural resources directly, changing consumption patterns can positively or negatively affect the environment, as well as the awareness of consumers and companies. Given the information we currently have available, debating sustainability, fashion and greenwashing is urgent and complex. Greenwashing - or, in Portuguese, “Green Wash” - is a marketing tactic that brands use to appear more sustainable than they really are. Greenwashing techniques range from the use of the color green - which, semiotically, we tend to perceive as a symbol of sustainability - to the use of labels, stamps and false or misleading information. The objective of this research is to analyze the practice of greenwashing by fashion brands and the impact of this type of strategy(ies) on the consumer perception. A mixed research methodology was applied which, in addition to the literature review, also includes a case study in which the brands H&M, Zara, Patagonia and Levi's are analyzed, as well as the application of a survey to consumers of different generations and work experiences and/or training.
Description
Keywords
Branding Consumidores Greenwashing Marcas de Moda Sustentabilidade