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Abstract(s)
A palavra Moda traduz um fenómeno complexo, composto de múltiplas vertentes, entre as quais o Design e a comunicação, determinando experiências e afetando comportamentos. Assume assim, na sua constante renovação, uma forte dimensão política, ética, económica e sociocultural. Se, até pouco mais de meados do século XX, esta indústria se constrói a partir de um paradigma que valoriza o designer e a autoria, das últimas décadas deste século aos nossos dias pudemos observar o modo como a marca, na maioria dos casos, passou a imperar sobre o autor, esvaziando-se dele. Grande parte das maiores casas de moda sobreviveram à morte dos seus criadores com a contratação de diretores criativos que, salvaguardando raras exceções, se movem entre marcas, sem particular fidelidade a nenhuma delas. Por outro lado, a necessidade de poderem expandir-se a uma escala global fez com que a maior parte das marcas se deixasse adquirir por corporações e conglomerados, que inevitavelmente colocam o negócio e o lucro como prioridade. O paradigma da marca acompanha profundas alterações socioculturais que denunciam igualmente a alteração de valores que, pouco a pouco, vamos conseguindo observar e confirmar com maior acuidade. Num mundo em que, cada vez mais, as pessoas querem ser vistas e se sentem validadas pelo retorno que obtêm dessa exposição, a marca tem vindo a tornar-se um complemento essencial a esta existência performativa reforçada pelas redes sociais. Esta investigação tem como objetivo compreender o funcionamento intrínseco às marcas de moda pertencentes a distintos setores (haute couture, prêt – à – porter e fast fashion) e, nesse sentido, o impacto que têm não apenas na indústria, mas sobretudo nos consumidores — e quais as estratégias aplicadas para operacionalizar essa influência. Em função dos principais objetivos traçados, a dissertação estrutura-se não só a partir da análise teórica do tema em questão, mas também de outros recursos metodológicos, entre os quais a aplicação de um questionário (difundido e preenchido online) a consumidores de produtos de moda, e ainda um questionário enviado a influencers digitais.
The word Fashion translates a complex phenomenon, composed of multiple aspects, including Design and communication, determining experiences, and affecting behaviors. It thus assumes, in its constant renewal, a strong political, ethical, economic, and sociocultural dimension. If, until just over the mid-twentieth century, this industry was built from a paradigm that valued designers and authorship, from the last decades of this last century to the present day we could observe the way in which the brand, in most cases, emerged over the author, emptying itself from this figure. Most of the biggest fashion houses survived the death of their creators by hiring creative directors who, with rare exceptions, move among brands, with no particular loyalty to any of them. On the other hand, the need to be able to expand on a global scale led most brands to be acquired by corporations and conglomerates, which inevitably put business and profit as a priority. The brand paradigm follows deep sociocultural changes that also denounce the change in values that we have been progressively able to observe and confirm with greater acuity. In a world where people increasingly want to be seen and feel validated by the return they get from this exposure, the brand has become an essential complement to this performative existence reinforced by social networks. This research aims to understand the intrinsic functioning of fashion brands belonging to different sectors (haute couture, prêt – à – porter and fast fashion) and, in this sense, the impact they have not only on the industry, but above all on consumers — and which strategies are applied to operationalize this influence. Due to the main objectives, we have outlined, the dissertation is structured not only after the theoretical analysis of the subject in question, but also resorting to other methodological resources, including the application of a questionnaire (spread and completed online) to fashion consumers, as well as a questionnaire sent to digital influencers.
The word Fashion translates a complex phenomenon, composed of multiple aspects, including Design and communication, determining experiences, and affecting behaviors. It thus assumes, in its constant renewal, a strong political, ethical, economic, and sociocultural dimension. If, until just over the mid-twentieth century, this industry was built from a paradigm that valued designers and authorship, from the last decades of this last century to the present day we could observe the way in which the brand, in most cases, emerged over the author, emptying itself from this figure. Most of the biggest fashion houses survived the death of their creators by hiring creative directors who, with rare exceptions, move among brands, with no particular loyalty to any of them. On the other hand, the need to be able to expand on a global scale led most brands to be acquired by corporations and conglomerates, which inevitably put business and profit as a priority. The brand paradigm follows deep sociocultural changes that also denounce the change in values that we have been progressively able to observe and confirm with greater acuity. In a world where people increasingly want to be seen and feel validated by the return they get from this exposure, the brand has become an essential complement to this performative existence reinforced by social networks. This research aims to understand the intrinsic functioning of fashion brands belonging to different sectors (haute couture, prêt – à – porter and fast fashion) and, in this sense, the impact they have not only on the industry, but above all on consumers — and which strategies are applied to operationalize this influence. Due to the main objectives, we have outlined, the dissertation is structured not only after the theoretical analysis of the subject in question, but also resorting to other methodological resources, including the application of a questionnaire (spread and completed online) to fashion consumers, as well as a questionnaire sent to digital influencers.
Description
Keywords
Consumidor Influencer Marca Moda Produto