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Authors
Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
A indústria da cosmética verde é objeto de investigação académica, contudo tem-se vindo a
focar mais na perspetiva da procura (consumidores), e não tanto na perspetiva da oferta
(marcas). Assim, esta investigação foca-se na identidade da marca de microempresas no
ramo da cosmética verde. O mercado da cosmética sólida, em Portugal, era até muito
recentemente composto unicamente por microempresas. Estas microempresas têm uma
identidade, sendo esta o objeto de estudo com base no modelo de análise de Kapferer
(2008). Para preencher as seis facetas do prisma (físico, personalidade, relação, cultura,
reflexo e autoimagem) foram entrevistadas oito marcas nacionais que se inserem em pelo
menos uma das categorias da cosmética verde: biodinâmico, hipoalergénico, não-OGM
(sem organismos geneticamente modificados usados), fair trade, cruelty free, vegan,
orgânicos e/ou naturais.
Descobriu-se que as principais fontes de diferenciação entre as marcas são o seu design, e
respetivos elementos visuais, e a personalidade da marca. Sobre as facetas da cultura e da
relação é visível que as marcas, na sua maioria, defendem os mesmos valores e fazem uso
dos mesmos canais de comunicação. Constatou-se também que as marcas confundem o
modo como os consumidores querem ser vistos, com o público-alvo da marca. As categorias
de cosmética verde mais comuns são o cruelty free, vegan e orgânico, e os produtos com
maior representação são os champôs, sabonetes e condicionadores.
Espera-se que estes resultados possam orientar o caminho a percorrer pelas marcas para a
complementação e atualização dos elementos associados à identidade de marca, e
incentivar ao estudo deste segmento de mercado e de pequenas marcas nacionais.
The green cosmetic industry has been the subject of academic researches, however these have been focused more on the demand perspective (consumers), and less on the supply perspective (brands). Thus, this research focuses on the brand identity of micro-enterprises in the green cosmetics industry. In Portugal, the market of solid cosmetics was, until very recently, composed only by national micro-enterprises. These micro-enterprises have an identity, which is the subject of this study based on Kapferer's (2008) analysis model. Kapferer's (2008) model is an identity prism, which has six different components: physical, personality, relationship, culture, reflection, and self-image. To fill in these six components, eight national micro-enterprises were interviewed. These had to belong to at least one of the green cosmetic’s categories: biodynamic, hypoallergenic, non-genetically modified organisms, fair trade, cruelty free, vegan, organic and/or natural. As a result of our research, we discovered that the main components that differentiate the identity of the brand are its design, and other visual elements, and the brand personality. On the facets of culture and relationship it is visible that brands, for the most part, defend the same values and make use of the same communication channels. It was also found that brands confuse how consumers want to be perceived by other with the brand's target audience. Regarding the categories in which most brands fall into, the most common are cruelty free, vegan and organic, and the products with the highest representation are shampoos, soaps and conditioners. It is hoped that these results can guide the way forward for brands to complement and update the elements associated with brand identity and encourage the creation of more studies focusing not only on the green cosmetic’s market, but also the study of identity of national small business.
The green cosmetic industry has been the subject of academic researches, however these have been focused more on the demand perspective (consumers), and less on the supply perspective (brands). Thus, this research focuses on the brand identity of micro-enterprises in the green cosmetics industry. In Portugal, the market of solid cosmetics was, until very recently, composed only by national micro-enterprises. These micro-enterprises have an identity, which is the subject of this study based on Kapferer's (2008) analysis model. Kapferer's (2008) model is an identity prism, which has six different components: physical, personality, relationship, culture, reflection, and self-image. To fill in these six components, eight national micro-enterprises were interviewed. These had to belong to at least one of the green cosmetic’s categories: biodynamic, hypoallergenic, non-genetically modified organisms, fair trade, cruelty free, vegan, organic and/or natural. As a result of our research, we discovered that the main components that differentiate the identity of the brand are its design, and other visual elements, and the brand personality. On the facets of culture and relationship it is visible that brands, for the most part, defend the same values and make use of the same communication channels. It was also found that brands confuse how consumers want to be perceived by other with the brand's target audience. Regarding the categories in which most brands fall into, the most common are cruelty free, vegan and organic, and the products with the highest representation are shampoos, soaps and conditioners. It is hoped that these results can guide the way forward for brands to complement and update the elements associated with brand identity and encourage the creation of more studies focusing not only on the green cosmetic’s market, but also the study of identity of national small business.
Description
Keywords
Cosmética Sólida Cosmética Verde Identidade de Marca Microempresas Sustentabilidade